A Father-Son Journey: Finding Connection (and a Few Laughs) on the Otago Central Rail Trail

This is a story about a father and son who embarked on an unforgettable adventure, cycling the Otago Central Rail Trail—a 152-kilometre journey through the breathtaking big sky country of Central Otago. But it’s more than just a bike ride. It’s a story of love, connection, and a shared experience that strengthened the bond between two men. A simple trip, yet deeply emotional, proving that sometimes, the most profound moments come from the simplest of adventures.

Dion (52) and his father, Graeme (76), had spoken for years about cycling the Otago Central Rail Trail. Growing up in Dunedin, Central Otago held a special place in their hearts as a regular family holiday destination. But this ride was more than a bucket list adventure; it was also a tribute to Graeme’s father, Walter or ‘Wattie’, who had driven a steam locomotive from Dunedin to Cromwell on the Otago Central branch line.

As a kid Graeme’s mother used to take him from Dunedin to Middlemarch where they would wait for the locomotive to arrive and Graeme and his brother would jump on and ride up the front with their Dad all the way back to Dunedin.

A steam locomotive at Alexandra on the Otago Central Railway (Photo John Creber, 23/09/1967)
 

As they pedalled along the trail, they were retracing the steps of Graeme’s father—a journey steeped in nostalgia and family history.

Their self-guided trip began in Middlemarch with high spirits and enthusiasm, but the first day quickly proved challenging. The duo faced strong headwinds on their way to Waipiata, pushing Dion to the limits when his father’s e-bike ran out of battery. Swapping bikes, Dion struggled against the wind with a heavy e-bike at an agonisingly slow pace. “I screamed into the skies at one point,” he recalls with a laugh. But the struggles of the day melted away when they finally reached the Waipiata Hotel, where well-earned cold beers were quickly consumed and rest followed at a nearby country cottage.

What made the Otago Central Rail Trail journey so special for Dion and Graeme wasn’t just the landscapes or the history—it was the people. From the kindness of accommodation providers, who picked them up with a trailer when they were too exhausted to reach their accommodation by bike, to the warm welcome at the Oturehua Railway Hotel, where the owner squeezed them in for a last-minute meal of steak and whitebait patties, the generosity of small-town Central Otago was on full display.

The days passed in a rhythm of riding, laughter, and reflection. Each stop along the way—from Lauder to Chatto Creek and off the trail at places like Cambrian and St. Bathans —brought its own unique charm and stories. There were moments of unexpected detours, like when Dion confidently led them down a supposed shortcut, only to realise it was a dead-end paper road, much to Graeme’s amused (and vocal) frustration. There were games of pool in tiny Vulcan Hotel at St Bathans, deep conversations about family history, games of euchre and simple but meaningful moments spent soaking in the golden landscapes of Central Otago.

Graeme outside the Vulcan Hotel in St Bathans

The final stretch from Alexandra to Clyde was bittersweet. The trail was alive with other cyclists, the autumn colours painted a stunning backdrop, and the finish line was in sight. Celebrating with a few well-deserved beers at the Post Office Café in Clyde, the sense of accomplishment was palpable. Graeme, at 76, had completed the journey—an effort that pushed his limits but left him with a deep sense of pride.

Reflecting on the journey, Dion recognises that the experience was about more than just the ride. “It’s the shared experience,” he says. “You talk about it regularly, little things that happened, things that made us laugh. That bond continues well beyond the trip.” Even now, Graeme, living in a retirement village in Auckland, still talks about the Rail Trail adventure, recommending it to anyone who will listen.

For father and son, this was more than a cycling trip. With busy lives, it was a rare opportunity to spend quality time together, to create new memories, and to pay tribute to the past. The Otago Central Rail Trail is more than just a path—it’s a journey, an experience, and a chance to connect with those who matter most.

So if you’ve ever considered taking on the Otago Central Rail Trail, don’t wait. Whether with a parent, a child, or a close friend, it’s a ride that promises more than just scenery—it’s a journey of connection, nostalgia, and moments that will take your breath away.

Mission completed. Dion signs Graeme's certificate of completion at Clyde.

As a keepsake—and to make his friends and family just the right amount of jealous—Dion put together a video showcasing all the highlights of his trip. The grand finale? A perfectly fitting quote: 'Life isn’t measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away'—which, in Dion’s case, included both stunning landscapes and a few uphill struggles on a e-bike with a flat battery!

Words: image central | Images: Supplied